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Wednesday
Jul182012

Improve Soil Fertility With Rock Dusts 

 

The famously fertile farmlands of North America, Europe, and New Zealand owe much of the credit to the crushed gravels left by melting glaciers in the last Ice Age.  As early as the 18th century, farmers understood that rock dusts replenished minerals in depleted soils, and left small rocks and crushed gravels in the ground where they would break down over time and replenish deficient trace minerals.

To be effective, rock dusts should be worked into the soil with compost, which will provide the necessary organic acids to speed up mineral release. When making a compost pile, add rock dusts on each successive layer so that the organic acids that are formed in the decomposition process will begin to break down the dusts. Granite dust is the exception, and should be applied directly to the soil with finished compost.

The most widely used and readily available rock dusts include :

Dolomitic Limestone
Dolomite is often referred to simply as lime, but it is actually much more valuable as, unlike crushed limestone which is pure calcium carbonate,  it contains both calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. It’s useful in sandy soils and to remedy magnesium deficient soils, but is most often used to raise the pH level

Green Sand
Green Sand is the crushed product of a sandy rock or sediment that contains a high amount of glauconite, a greenish black mineral formed in marine deposits.  Green Sand has been sold as an organic mineral fertilizer and soil conditioner for over 100 years. It contains potassium, phosphorous, magnesium, and iron, and is favored by growers because the gentle release of phosphorous and potassium won’t burn plants. Green Sand also has excellent water absorbency.

Rock Phosphate
Rock Phosphate is a very forgiving, slow release source of phosphorous that  is so mild that it almost cannot be over applied. Depending on where it was mined, rock phosphate can be contaminated with other undesirable minerals, and is best purchased from a reputable gardening company, which can vouch for the source.

Gypsum
Powdered or pelletized garden gypsum is particularly useful in breaking up heavy clay soils. The mineral is also high in calcium, which benefits plants.

Granite Dust
Granite dust is a great source of slow release potassium, and while they can vary some in composition, usually contain between 3-5% potassium. Granite dust is commonly sold by landscape supply companies, often referred to as granite screenings, and used by landscapers for setting and leveling stones in patios and pathways.

Crushed Basalt
Basalt rock is formed by volcanic activity, and is used in large quantities for road building. The dust from the preparation of basalt gravel, called ‘belt dust’, is readily available, and an excellent source of minerals including silica, which improves plant cell structure and calcium and phosphorous intake.

Tuesday
Jul172012

Are Backyard Chickens Legal?

Are you the kind of person that would never even think of ignoring that no left turn sign? Even if it was 4am and no one was around?  Do you insist on cutting every fallen tree limb and hedge clipping into precise 3’ pieces lest the collection truck reject your yard waste?  Did you apply for a city building permit before installing your porch swing?

Interested in having backyard chickens in Charlotte?

In order to obtain a permit, you’ll need to jump through the dozen or so hoops listed below. Which won’t be a problem at all for the person who absolutely never runs at the pool.

Have enough sense not to get a rooster? Willing to build a nice looking coop that the neighbors will enjoy as much as your hens? Comfortable with taking risks like drinking straight from the tap, or cutting the tags off of mattresses?

More than a few of you must, because of the dozens of urban chicken coop owners we’ve talked to at Atherton Market, not one has bothered with the beaurocratic red tape of the permit.

Only you can decide if you’ll be comfortable living as an outlaw with no permit. Not comfortable with the risky lifestyle of a bootleg urban chicken keeper? Would you sleep better knowing that in addition to having supplemental insurance for your AFLAC supplemental insurance policy, you also have an official permit to keep backyard chickens? Better get out the measuring tape and make sure the coop is at least 25 feet from the property line...make sure they stay in the coop at all times...

Sec. 3-102. - City permits.

(a)Required. It shall be unlawful for any person to own, keep, have, or maintain any equine animals, cloven-hoofed animals or other livestock or any chickens, turkeys, ducks, guineas, geese, pheasants, pigeons or other domestic fowl in the city without first receiving from the bureau a permit to do so or to continue to have any of such animals or fowl after a permit has been denied.

This section shall not apply to, and no permit shall be required for, any agricultural operation within G.S. 106-700, which pertains to nuisance liability of agricultural operation, or to any rabbit that is kept exclusively inside its owner's residence. The permit shall be valid for one year from the date of issuance and shall be renewed annually. The annual fee for such permit shall be $40.00 per household. The application shall list all such animals and fowl on the premises. Before a permit is issued an employee of the bureau shall inspect the premises to determine if the keeping of the animals or fowl on the premises will endanger or is likely to endanger the health, safety, peace, quiet, comfort, enjoyment of or otherwise become a public nuisance to nearby residents or occupants or places of business.

(b)Denial. When a permit is denied for any reason, the applicant shall be given a written explanation of the reason for denial.

(c)Compliance required prior to issuance. An owner or possessor of such animals or fowl shall comply with the following applicable subsections before a permit is issued. Compliance with the following applicable subsections will create a rebuttable presumption that a permit shall be issued. That presumption may only be rebutted by specific findings supported by competent evidence that, despite compliance with the following, the presence of such animals or fowl is still likely to endanger the health, safety, peace, quiet, comfort, enjoyment of or otherwise become a public nuisance to nearby residents or occupants or places of business:

(1)Fowl and other specifically identified animals. The keeping of chickens, turkeys, ducks, guineas, geese, pheasants or other domestic fowl or rabbits shall be in compliance with the following:

a.Such animals must be confined in a coop, fowl house or rabbit hutch not less than 18 inches in height. The fowl must be kept within the coop or fowl house and the rabbits in the hutch at all times.

b.The coop or fowl house must be used for fowl only and the hutch for rabbits only, and both must be well ventilated.

c.The coop, fowl house or hutch shall have a minimum of four square feet of floor area for each fowl or rabbit.

d.The run must be well drained so there is no accumulation of moisture.

e.The coop, fowl house or hutch shall be kept clean, sanitary and free from accumulation of animal excrement and objectionable odors. It shall be cleaned daily, and all droppings and body excretion shall be placed in a flyproof container and double-bagged in plastic bags.

f.The coop, fowl house or hutch shall be a minimum of 25 feet from any property line.

g.No more than 20 such fowl or rabbits shall be kept or maintained per acre. The number of fowl or rabbits should be proportionate to the acreage.

(2)Pigeons. Pigeons, while allowed to fly to and from the premises, must be provided with adequate space on the premises, and sanitary conditions must be maintained.

(3)Cloven-hoofed animals. The keeping of cloven-hoofed animals, equines and other livestock shall be in compliance with the following:

a.Such animals must be provided with adequate shelter to protect them from the elements.

b.The shelter shall be kept clean, sanitary and free from accumulations of animal excrement and objectionable odors.

c.The shelters for cows and other large livestock, which are covered by the zoning ordinance in appendix A to this Code, shall be kept at a minimum of 75 feet from any property line. The shelters for goats and other small livestock shall be kept at a minimum of 25 feet from any property line.

d.Each cow or other large livestock, excluding equines, shall have a minimum pasture area of two acres. Each goat, sheep or other small livestock shall have a minimum pasture area of one-fourth acre.

(4)Slaughter. Any slaughter of any livestock or poultry not regulated by state law or otherwise forbidden or regulated shall be done only in a humane and sanitary manner and shall not be done open to the view of any public area or adjacent property owned by another.

(5)Annexation. An owner or possessor of animals on property that is newly annexed has 90 days from the date of annexation to bring the property into compliance and to have obtained permits required by this section.

(6)Exceptions. A permit shall not be required for animals of any kind if the animals are kept by a governmental authority or other appropriately certified and recognized academic institution, museum, raptor center, etc.

(d)Revocation. The bureau may revoke any permit:

(1)When the permit has been mistakenly issued without compliance with this section;

(2)When the applicant has submitted false information;

(3)For a violation of any of the sections of this chapter;

(4)When, in the opinion of the bureau manager, the health, safety or welfare of any person or property is menaced by the keeping of such animals; or

(5)When the animals become a nuisance.

If a permit is revoked, the applicant shall be given a written explanation of the reasons for the revocation. Upon the determination of a violation of this section, and if the violation pertains to a correctable condition on the property, the owner shall have 30 days in which to bring the property or condition into compliance with this chapter

(Code 1985, § 3-37; Ord. No. 2840, § 4, 12-13-2004)

 

 

Sunday
Jul082012

Four Savory Summer Vegetable Recipes

Want to get creative with your garden's harvests and make some memorable meals this summer? Try these four excellent recipes that bring out the best in summer produce.

Summer Vegetable Stir-Fry with Couscous

 INGREDIENTS

  • 2 cups diced peeled eggplant
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 1 cup couscous
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 1 cup diced peeled carrots
  • 1 cup diced zucchini
  • 1 cup diced yellow crookneck squash
  • 1 cup small broccoli florets
  • 1 cup diced red bell pepper
  • 1/2 cup diced red onion
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 4 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted


PREPARATION

Toss eggplant and 1 teaspoon salt in medium bowl; let stand 30 minutes. Rinse and drain eggplant. Pat dry.

Bring 1 1/2 cups water and 1/2 teaspoon salt to boil in large saucepan. Stir in couscous. Remove from heat. Cover; let stand 10 minutes. Uncover; fluff with fork.

Whisk 1 1/2 tablespoons oil and vinegar in small bowl. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in wok or large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add eggplant and carrots; stir-fry 3 minutes. Add zucchini and next 5 ingredients; stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add couscous and vinegar mixture; stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in basil and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with pine nuts.

 


Summer Vegetable Succotash

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 lb small (1-inch) yellow-fleshed potatoes such as Yukon Gold
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil (preferably corn oil)
  • 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
  • 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 3 ears; preferably yellow and white)
  • 8 oz baby pattypan squash, trimmed and quartered
  • 8 oz frozen shelled edamame (fresh soybeans) or baby lima beans (1 1/2 cups), cooked according to package directions and cooled
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives


PREPARATION

Cover potatoes with cold salted water by 1 inch in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and cool, then cut into bite-size pieces.

Heat oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet over high heat until foam subsides, then sauté potatoes with salt and pepper to taste, turning once or twice, until nicely crusted, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl.

Sauté corn and squash in remaining 3 tablespoons butter in skillet over moderately high heat, stirring, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in beans and sauté, stirring, until heated through. Season with salt and pepper and add to potatoes with onion and chives, stirring to combine.

 

 

Cold Sesame Noodles with Summer Vegetables

INGREDIENTS

  • 1/3 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 tablespoon Sriracha (hot chili sauce)
  • 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
  • 8 cups matchstick-size pieces mixed summer vegetables (such as carrots, radishes, cucumbers, and bell peppers; about 1 1/4 pounds)
  • Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
  • 8 ounces buckwheat soba (Japanese-style noodles) or vermicelli noodles
  • 1 cup (loosely packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems
  • 3 scallions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon black or white sesame seeds


PREPARATION

Whisk first four ingredients in a large bowl. Add vegetables; toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper.

Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; drain. Run noodles under cold water to cool them; drain well and add to bowl with vegetables. Add cilantro and scallions; season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle sesame seeds over and serve.

 

 

Orzo with Grilled Shrimp, Summer Vegetables, and Pesto Vinaigrette

INGREDIENTS

  • 8 ounces orzo (about 1 1/3 cups)
  • 6 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
  • 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar, divided
  • 2 medium zucchini or summer squash (about 9 ounces total), cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices
  • 1 red or yellow bell pepper, quartered
  • 3 tablespoons purchased pesto
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1 pound uncooked large shrimp, peeled, deveined
  • 2 heirloom tomatoes (8 to 10 ounces total), cored, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves plus sprigs for garnish
  • 1 8-ounce ball fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

 
PREPARATION


Cook orzo in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain. Rinse with cold water; drain well. Transfer to large bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon oil.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Whisk 2 tablespoons oil and 2 tablespoons vinegar in small bowl. Brush zucchini and bell pepper with oil mixture, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Whisk pesto, lime juice, remaining 3 1/2 tablespoons oil, and remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar in small bowl for pesto vinaigrette. Place shrimp in medium bowl. Add 2 tablespoons pesto vinaigrette; toss to coat.

Grill zucchini and bell pepper until crisptender, about 3 minutes per side for zucchini and 4 minutes per side for bell pepper. Transfer to work surface. Sprinkle shrimp with salt and pepper; grill until charred and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Place shrimp in bowl with orzo. Chop zucchini and bell pepper; add to bowl with orzo. Add remaining vinaigrette, tomatoes, sliced basil, and mozzarella; toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover; chill.

Garnish with basil sprigs and serve cold or at room temperature.

 

 

Sunday
Jul082012

Protect Your Garden's Soil With Mulch

 

 

Mulches are a vital part of organic gardening, especially in hot climates like the Southeastern United States. Heavy rains can wreak havoc on garden soils, and high daytime temperatures can quickly burn organic material out of the soil. Applying mulch over your garden’s soil protects it’s organic content and structure from compaction when the soil dries, and helps prevent erosion from rain. Mulches also stabilize the temperature of the soil, insulating microbial soil organisms, earthworms, and plant roots from temperature extremes. They help control weeds, and perhaps best of all, mulch helps reduce water consumption by reducing loss to evaporation.  When applying mulch, remember not to spread it too close to the plant as this can cause fungal attacks due to the increased humidity it creates.

So what can you use to mulch your organic garden?

Alfalfa
An excellent , popular mulch that is high in nitrogen, trace minerals, and the plant hormone triacontanol.

 

Salt Hay
Great because it doesn’t mat and is free of seeds. Avoid using grass hay, as it’s loaded with seeds.

Straw
It’s light and easy to work with, and adds organic matter to the soil when tilled in.

 

Compost
Be sure to use only finished compost, as material that isn’t fully composted can rob the soil of nitrogen.

Dried Grass Clippings
Dried is the keyword here…spread only about an inch of herbicide free, dried grass clippings over your garden. Piles of fresh grass clippings will only clump and mat. And smell.

 

Shredded Bark
A nice looking, readily available mulch option that breaks down slowly, but also takes nitrogen away from the soil.

 

Shredded, Dried Leaves
A high quality, readily available garden mulch that adds organic matter and trace minerals to the soil.

Newspaper
Not the most attractive option, but a very effective weed barrier between rows of vegetables.

Wood Chips, Shavings or Sawdust
Effective mulches that can temporarily rob the soil of nitrogen. Bone Meal and Dried Blood should be added to the soil before mulching to correct this. Do not use material from treated wood.

 

 

 

Sunday
Jul082012

Keep Fresh Produce Fresher, Longer

 

 

So your garden is a success this year. A big success. Because of you, all your friends, family and co-workers now eat green beans three times a week. You’ve got squash piling up in the fridge faster than coupons in your mailbox, and a brigade of tomatoes has begun to fall into formation on your countertop. So how do you best store your home grown produce to share and enjoy next week, or the week after?

 

For most vegetables the ideal storage conditions are a dry location between 32-38 degrees.  Here are some tips for keeping your produce fresh in the refridgerator.

Apples
Apples will absorb odors, so store them separately from other produce. They also give off ethylene, which speeds ripening in other produce.

Asparagus
Place in a plastic bag and use within a span of 3-4 days 

Blueberries
Store blueberries in a shallow container for up to four days. Do not wash before storing.

 

Cabbage
Store heads of cabbage in a plastic bag for up to two weeks. The longer cabbage is stored, the stronger the flavor and aroma become. Store a half head by sprinkling the cut side with water, and sealing in a plastic bag.

Carrots
Cut off the tops, and store carrots in a paper bag. A plastic bag works well too, and the carrots will keep for several weeks, but they’ll taste their best during the first week. 

Corn
Corn stores the most poorly of any vegetable. Try and use it the day you pick it.

 

Cucumbers
Homegrown cucumbers will dry out much faster than the wax coated store bought ones. If you store your cukes unwashed, away from other produce, they’ll last a week or more.

Eggplant
When stored in your fridge’s crisper, it will stay fresh up to a week.

Grapes
Store grapes in a sealed plastic bag until you’re ready to use them. They can keep for several days.

Green Beans
Green beans stored in a plastic produce bag in the refrigerator can last for about a week.

Greens
Start by rinsing the leaves and removing any bad spots. Then dry between paper towels and store in the fridge in a plastic bag.

Herbs
herbs like basil, parsley and cilantro keep better if left on the stem. Place the branch in a glass of water, and cover with a plastic bag.

Melons
Keep melons away from other fruit, in a dry place between 45 and 50 degrees.  Refrigerate melons after cutting.

 

Peaches
Store peaches in a paper bag at room temperature until they’re ripe, then refrigerate for up to five days. Separate peaches from other fruit to avoid overripening.

Pears
Pears are best harvested before they have fully ripened. Store at room temperature for a few days, then refrigerate apart from other produce. They can last up to a week.

Peppers
Store whole peppers away from fruit, in a dry place between 45-50 degrees. Refrigerate once cut.

Plums
Store unripe plums in a paper bag at room temperature. After they ripen, store refrigerated for 3-5 days, apart from other fruits.

Potatoes
Store potatoes in a paper bag with holes in it, and keep them in a cool, dry, dark place with good ventilation. Be sure to keep potatoes away from onions, apples, and direct sunlight, as it can cause the skins to turn  green and bitter.

Raspberries & Blackberries
Store berries for up to two days unwashed. When preparing, mist the berries instead of washing under running water.

Squash
Wipe dirt from squash instead of washing, and store in the fridge for up to a week.

Strawberries
Store strawberries in a shallow container, covered loosely with plastic, and in the coldest part of the refrigerator. They can last up to three days.

 

Tomatoes
Don’t refrigerate tomatoes as it will ruin their flavor and texture. Store unripe tomatoes at room temperature until ready to eat.