Three Ways to Propagate Herb Plants

Culinary and medicinal herbs are some of the most useful plants to have in your garden, but they take soooo long to grow from seed that most gardeners opt to buy their herb plants from nurseries. But even with professional grow equipment and staff, nurseries can’t really speed the process up much more than a home grower, and it shows in the retail price of herb plants. But if you’ve ever dreamed of propagating many herb plants from the few you already have, and saving some serious coin in the process, then read on. Use any or all of these time-tested methods to bypass the slothful process of growing herb plants from seed, and grow herb seedlings faster, from propagation.  

 Stem Cuttings

With a sterile blade, cut 4” sections of stem, taking up to three cuttings from a single, healthy stem, with no flowers. Prune off any leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Make the bottom cuts at a 45 degree angle to increase the rooting surface area, and dip it in an organic rooting agent, which increases root cell division. Gently push the angled end of each cutting about an inch deep into a wetted, soil-less grow media. You’ll increase your success rate by maintaining the ideal temperature and humidity around your new cuttings. A thermostat-controlled heat mat placed underneath them will help maintain the ideal soil temperature of around 80 degrees, and a plastic dome placed overhead will help keep a high humidity level while the cuttings begin to develop new roots. Compact florescent grow lights can also help new cuttings develop roots. Fluorescents produce a gentle light and very little heat, which means they can sit just a few inches above the plastic dome, and run for up to eighteen hours a day. Once the new cuttings develop roots, remove the plastic dome, and run a small fan to increase ventilation. Once they show new growth, your new herb seedlings will be ready to transplant.

Simple Layering

Layering works best with plants that have healthy, flexible stems. Begin by digging a small hole next to your donor herb plant, and amend the hole with organic compost. If the donor herb plant is growing in a pot, simply use another pot filled with organic soil placed right next to it.  Make a small slit in the bottom of a stem, and gently push the sliced section of stem down into the prepared soil. Secure the stem with a sod staple or similar item to keep it fixed securely in the soil. Water the buried section of stem as needed, and before long, new roots will grow. Once a strong new root system has developed, the rooted stem can be cut off from the donor plant, and transplanted.

Root Cuttings

Start by gently digging up the roots of the donor herb plant, and look for young, healthy roots about the diameter of a pencil. Avoid fibrous looking roots, and if you plan to keep the donor plant, leave the majority of its root system intact. Cut out segments of roots about 5” long, making a straight cut at the top end, and an angled cut at the bottom ; this way you’ll know which end is up. Dip the root segments in an organic rooting agent, and gently push the angled end down into a wetted, sterile grow media, until the top end is even with the soil surface. Carefully spread any thin rootlets out to the sides, and cover the root cutting with a thin layer of grow media. Once new leaves begin to grow from your root cuttings, they’re ready to transplant.

Playful Chicken Coop with a Seriously Strong Design

At last, the Cuka family was finally was ready for a backyard flock of chickens.  The fenced backyard of their new home had plenty of shade, and two eager kids were now old enough to help out with the chores. Their four baby chicks were already ordered, and the only thing left was to choose the right coop design. Naturally, it had to keep their hens safe from predators, and comfortable in harsh weather. But this coop also needed to complement the family’s upscale home and neighborhood, and with it’s elegant metal roof and red cedar trim, the Playhouse Coop design checked all the boxes, and won them over. 

Armed with loads of style and traffic-stopping curb appeal, this fun chicken coop design will extract a smile from even the stodgiest neighbors. You can select from twenty metal roof panel colors, and even more exterior stain color choices, and make your playhouse coop one of a kind. But don’t let playful touches like the window and flower box fool you, this is one rock-solid chicken coop. 

The Playhouse Coop’s rough-sawn, red cedar frame components are joined using a clever combination of exterior screws, gussets, and waterproof wood glue. The result is a robust frame that can easily withstand punishing wind, snow, and ice loads, as well as relentless testing by all kinds of hungry wildlife. 

And like our other chicken coop designs, we wrap the Playhouse Coop frame with 1/2” galvanized hardware cloth, instead of poultry netting (i.e chicken wire )  which has larger hexagonal openings. This stout, steel mesh has smaller,  1/2”x1/2” squares, which makes the coop more secure from predators. We extend the hardware cloth across the entire floor of the coop, completely protecting it from digging predators, like raccoons. 

The Playhouse Coop is large enough for up to five chickens, but makes a roomier home for three or four hens. And if you’re looking for an attractive, robust coop design that enhances an upscale setting, the Playhouse Coop is sure to please. But before choosing your coop, consider that is is one of the smaller walk-in chicken coop designs, and with the floor covered entirely with hardware cloth, your hens will be eager to come of their coop every morning to scratch around the yard, forage, and take dust baths. If your schedule or location would make it difficult or impossible to let your hens out for a little while every day, or almost every day, consider a larger coop design like the Garden Coop or Garden Loft. These two coop designs have hardware cloth buried around the entire outer perimeter instead of across the floor, allowing the hens to dust bathe inside the coop, and scratch around for grain.

Low-Tech Organic Gardening Outfit Installs High-Tech Irrigation Timers

It’s hard to imagine a more low-tech product than an 18” tall cedar raised bed filled with organic soil and chicken manure. Simple. Effective. No moving parts.

And that’s just how we like it.

The enjoyment from a garden mainly comes from learning to work with the rhythm of the seasons - a sort of dance with nature, where she always leads. There aren’t any shortcuts in gardening, and there never will be. Plants will always need pruning and weeds will keep sprouting. But there are ways to save time in the garden and make it a little more comfortable, too. Raised beds make organic gardening much easier on your back, and if they’re filled with a high quality organic soil blend, are sure to increase the chances of success. And drip irrigation saves time. A lot of time actually, and with the right watering schedule, will almost certainly improve the success of your garden.

We offer the option of including 1/2” drip irrigation when we install a Kitchen Garden raised bed with organic soil, and most customers do choose to add it. Some tie into an existing irrigation system, but many of these drip irrigation systems are controlled by a battery-powered, programmable timer placed at the nearest spigot.

Hours that would have been spent hand watering, can suddenly be devoted to sleeping in, stilt walking, or fine tuning your stand up comedy routine. And what could possibly be better than that?

A Bluetooth controlled timer that lets you set and adjust the watering schedule from inside your house. 

Now, we have to admit, that’s pretty clever. You’re late for work, and don’t want to climb through the hedge in a dress and heels to manually adjust the timer. No problemo - just pick up your phone and change the watering schedule while your bagel finishes toasting.

It’s been raining for two days, and the last thing the garden needs is another drop of water? Forget the umbrella and rain boots, just turn off the irrigation from your sofa.

DIY gardeners shouldn’t have any problem setting up the timer - just remember to place a pressure regulator and back-flow preventer between the adapter and the timer.  These two important components moderate the water pressure in your drip system to a suitable level, and prevent water from being drawn back inside your home’s water lines once it’s passed through the spigot, into the irrigation tubing.  

Of course, we’re happy to install this useful bit of new technology on one of our low-tech cedar garden beds. Just give us a call, or complete the contact form to get going. And in the meantime, you may want to think on how you’ll spend all those extra hours you’ll save. 

How to Prune Indeterminate Tomato Vines

Finally, it’s summer. The season of barbecues, fireworks, and garden fresh tomatoes right off the vine.  And by the end of summer, those tomato vines have usually become sprawling monsters that hog the entire garden. But the flavor of those home-grown tomatoes is well worth it, right? Of course it is, but if you’re growing indeterminate tomato varieties - that is, types that continue producing new leaves and flowers throughout the entire growing season, unlike determinate or bush varieties that reach a finite mature size, and yield one harvest - then you could actually increase that fresh tomato euphoria by pruning the vines.  Plus you’ll have a neater looking garden with more sunlight and space for your other garden plants to hit their stride, too.

Improved Air Circulation

Removing unneeded foliage from tomato plants  - especially the 18” or so of space right above the soil surface - increases air flow around the plants, and encourages vigorous growth. Pruning leaves and branches from the bottom third of the plant also helps prevent mildew and moisture related diseases which thrive in the wet environment that a dense tangle of lower branches creates just above the soil surface. Diseases like septoria and early blight often live in garden soil, and removing the lower branches helps reduce the chance of these soil-borne diseases from  splashing up onto the foliage. Plus, your garden is instantly more inviting, and with all those unruly branches out of the way, it’s much easier to spot weeds and insect pests while there’s still time to take action.

Larger Fruit

Timely pruning diverts a tomato plant’s energy toward growing and ripening fruit instead of simply producing new stems and leaves. Pruning may reduce the total number of tomatoes you’ll yield in a season, but the average size of each tomato will be larger. Just be sure to save the leaves right around a cluster of tomato fruits - these leaves send sugar to the developing tomatoes and also help shade and protect them from sun scald. 

Earlier Ripening

When a plant has fewer fruit, the remaining fruits ripen faster, which saves time. This can be a game-changer for feet-dragging gardeners who finally get around to planting their tomatoes when the ice cream man starts making his rounds, and the neighborhood pool opens for the summer.

At Planting Time

Pruning works best on strong, healthy plants, so when planting a new tomato seedling - especially a tall one that may have already been growing for a while - remove the lower leaves from the stem and bury the plant deeply. Tomato plants have the unique ability to turn an above ground stem into a below ground root. So, what was a spindly above ground stem, will soon become a hungry, below ground root. Goodbye gangly tomato seedling, hello stocky, sturdy tomato plant. You’ll also want to remove any flowers that are on a tomato seedling when you plant it. This ensures that energy is channeled into new vegetative growth instead of towards fruiting, which should happen much later in the plant’s life cycle.

Early to Mid-Season

As your indeterminate tomato plants begin to grow, remove any flowers until plants are at least 18” tall. This lets plants focus that energy developing a strong root system that will help the plant thrive through the heat of summer. Prune off all of the leafy lower branches - often called ‘suckers’ - below the first group of tomato fruit. Suckers form in the axil, or the part of the tomato plant where a leaf stem attaches to a main growing stem. It’s best to remove suckers while they’re small enough to simply pinch off with your fingers, which helps prevent damage to the main stem. Larger suckers should be pruned away with a clean cut at the main stem. Many tomato growers in southern areas of the US use the Missouri pruning technique, where only the small leaflets at the end of each sucker are removed, leaving two base leaflets on the plant. These will eventually grow large enough to shade ripening tomatoes, protecting them from sun scald. And to reduce the chance of spreading disease, it’s best to prune when your tomato plants when they’re dry.

Late Season

By late summer,  every tomato grower will confront the same yearly dilemma ; how much longer to wait on those sprawling tomato vines loaded down with bushels of nearly rip, full-sized, but still very green tomatoes. The smallish window to establish a fall garden closes a little bit each day that the tomato plants stay in the ground. But here comes pruning to the rescue, again. Simply ‘top’ those stragglers about a month before your area’s average first frost date, and the green tomatoes that are still on the vine will ripen faster.  ‘Topping’ simply means cutting a main growing stem above the highest cluster of fruit, which triggers the plant to cease flowering and new fruit setting, and diverts all of its sugars to ripening the remaining tomatoes. Topping helps ripen those tantalizingly large clusters of tomatoes sooner, plus any green ones still left on the vine that are plucked before the first frost are more likely to ripen indoors.

Spacious Garden Loft Coop Right at Home on Spacious Rock Hill Farm

Mike and Beth Whitehead’s new Rock Hill farm has all the joy that country life can offer. A meandering gravel drive leads from the main gate past a sturdy barn made with rough sawn oak, to a gracious residence thoughtfully nestled in a cluster of shade trees. Sweeping meadows unfold in every direction for hitting golf balls, riding horses, or watching the sunset. The cedar-framed greenhouse and sunny garden area are an especially welcome legacy from the property’s previous owners, and they’re just a short stroll from the house. The couple always found space for organic gardening and composting at their prior homes in Charlotte, but, until now, a backyard chicken coop just didn’t fit into the picture. 

But holdups that stood in the way of fresh eggs aren’t issues on their bucolic new property, and the first step was to choose the right chicken coop design for their backyard flock. 

Mike and Beth work in Charlotte, and they split their time between their Rock Hill farm, and a smaller Charlotte residence that’s close to the office. And even though they only wanted five laying hens, their coop had to be large enough to keep the flock safe and dry, secured inside for several days at a time. 

Strong, sturdy coop designs like the Playhouse Coop and Garden Coop are large enough for five hens, but a more spacious design was needed to keep their flock safe and comfortable during the portions of the week that the couple is away from their farm. 

The Garden Loft Coop was the answer. Like the Garden Coop and Playhouse Coop, it has outstanding ventilation and a fully covered run built into the design, and like these two outstanding coops, a robust cedar frame and galvanized wire mesh frustrate even heavyweight predators like coyotes.

But the Garden Loft is much more spacious than these two smaller designs. It makes a comfortable home for up to sixteen hens, and it’ll make an especially spacious coop for a smaller backyard flock that may not come out to forage very often. Or even at all. 

The perfect site for the Whitehead’s coop was easy to find - just at the edge of a tall tree line, only a few paces behind the greenhouse. This location will give their hens the right combination of afternoon shade in the warmer months, and maximum sunlight during the winter.

We framed the Whitehead’s Garden Loft Coop with rough-sawed red cedar which is naturally long lasting, and stout enough to hold up in rough weather conditions and the perpetual challenges of crafty wildlife. And like the Garden Coop, the Garden Loft is wrapped with 1/2” galvanized hardware cloth which is buried around the entire perimeter to stop determined predators like raccoons from digging under. 

 

The roost area at the back of the coop is sided with durable T1-11 siding, which gives needed shade in the summer and breaks icy winds during the winter, but the overhead portion of the roost area is simply secured with hardware cloth.This dramatically increases air exchange inside the roost area, and improves the health of the hens, without sacrificing comfort or security. 

Tinted polycarbonate roof panels extend over the entire area of the Garden Loft Coop, which helps keep the birds dry. And a dry chicken is more likely to be a comfortable and healthy chicken during the harsh, colder months of the year. 

It certainly was a special treat for us to build this coop in such a picturesque setting, and after three days of chicken coop crafting, we presented the keys to the coop’s new owners. If big smiles are an indication of approval, then they seemed pretty happy. And with their new Garden Loft Coop completed, and baby chicks on the way, Mike and Beth Whitehead do seem to have something new to smile about on their stunning Rock Hill property. And they’re definitely a big step closer to the fresh eggs they’ve always wanted.